By Adrienne Yancey
Taiwanese-Canadian designer Jason Wu led his S/2016 R-T-W collection moods inspired by glamour on Sept. 11, 2015. Hues ranging from crimson, pewter, camel and cream collided on polished neutral runways. Crew, portrait and sweetheart necklines were of the most abundant within the 37 looks presented.
One standout features a button-up, deep viridian, ribbed crop top with frayed edges that sat on the rim of its collar and lower half of the top. A venetian red, drop crotch chamois pant cinched with a rectangular brass buckle is perfectly paired. The opening look features a structured, flowing exaggerated lapel whose frayed edges cloak the shoulders of the coat and leads to the knee.
Wu’s execution of glamour is apparent through his designs; however, few of the looks he presents fit the description. Look 18 features a camel hued, square necked bodice with a boxy structure. Although the dress length ends in mid-thigh range, the material and structure does not flow with the collection as the term glamour implies that it should. However, the majority of Wu’s designs are an accurate personalized take on the term.
The looks of the collection were not overtly flamboyant, but successfully feverish and sultry in their construction. For two-piece looks, Wu’s signature casual designs were executed well.
The designer’s collection did not stray from his classic aesthetics. The silhouettes were sweltering, edgy, fun, and versatile. The color palette was effectively demure (deep and neutral shades), but provided sensual energy (v-cuts, horizon cleavage and slicked hair) in comparison with the blueprints of the clothing. Wu’s glamour is a convincing interpretation.